STEP 6: Look for hotspots, and fix
Some pieces of glass maybe more translucent than others, or directly in front of the light bulb.

Either condition will result in unattractive "hotspots."

Such hot spots are easily fixed with ordinary paper and adhesive tape.

STEP 7: Take several pictures
Photograph with all lights off, except the spots that point towards the lamp base.

Select a long exposure time such as 1/30, or even 1/4 of a second. This will allow you maximal aperture, and increase your depth of field. Once the correct aperture determined through the in-camera light meter in the view finder, take a shot. Then take two additional shots increasing the aperture one notch each time. Repeat, this time decreasing the aperture one notch. This will insure that at least one of your pictures will have perfect exposure. The long exposure that compensates for the low light levels, slow film absolutely requires the use of a tripod.

VARIATION: Digital camera
Some digital cameras have a built-in, electronic 80A filter function that adjusts the color balance of tungsten lighting and "cool" it to look more natural. Obviously, cameras with this function are far better suited for photographing stained glass lamp shades than cameras that lack it.

The camera flash should be overridden in the setting so as not to be set off by the low light. Most digital cameras have features that can mimic, or allow, a longer exposure. Select a setting where the low light is compensated by lengthening the exposure time.

Lamp photography
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